Our Favorite Mountain Restaurants (Winter)
In Europe skiing is as much about lunch as it is the runs that take you there, from rustic mountain huts serving wooden plates of local cheese and dried meats, to gourmet restaurants with menus and wine lists.
One of the key differences between skiing in the Alps and the rest of the world, is the sheer size of the resorts, dwarfing even the largest by North American standards. But hand-in-hand with the size of the lift-served area, is the fact that scattered throughout all of the skiing domain, are dozens of quaint little hamlets, mountain huts, and standalone restaurants, all which serve diverse local mountain food - some rustic, and some the highest-level gastronomy - so you’re never more than a few turns away from one of the best meals of your life...with your ski boots on.
Flühalp, Zermatt
Originally opened as a hotel for summer hikers and climbers (and still operating as such), Flühalp has a commanding presence and incredible views best reached by taking the Rothorn cablecar. Reinhard Kopler and his team welcome you to this “bergoasis”, where on a sunny day, you can sit out on the terrace, or in inclement weather in the covered terrace area or inside in the historic dining rooms. Live music and the wildest St. Patrick’s day party in Zermatt are another draw. But the food is the real attraction here - from exceptional mixed appetizer platters, to classics like rösti and käseschnitte, home-made pastas, and don’t forget their house specialty caramel schnapps.
Franz & Heidi’s Findlerhof, Zermatt
The little mountain hamlet of Findeln is home to some of the best restaurants in Zermatt - crazy to consider when all of the products must be brought up daily by ski-lift, snow-cat, snowmobile, or tractor. The Findlerhof is the lowest restaurant, with the best unimpeded Matterhorn view in the valley. The hosts (truly named Franz and Heidi) welcome you to their tiny paradise, where their even tinier kitchen whips up impossibly-good food. Reservations are a must, as they only can handle about 50 guests at a time, who come for grilled meats, incredible cioppino-style fischsüppe, and homemade pastas, not to mention the classics like rösti.
Chez Dany, Verbier
The summer farming hamlet of Clambin weighs heavily in Verbier’s history due to the legendary ski bum culture that it spawned in the 1970’s. Equally legendary is the restaurant and the setting, perched on a plateau above the main resort village, Chez Dany welcomes skiers that brave the sometimes-challenging approach piste with all of the cheesy classics - fondue, croûte, and “assiette Valaisian”, assorted local cured meats and cheeses. Sunset views of the Grand Combin are incredible, but even more fun than the aprés-ski lunch is to take a snow taxi (passenger snowcat) up for dinner, then sled down to town by headlamp afterwards.
La Marlenaz, Verbier
Perched way across the resort from Clambin, Restaurant Marlenaz is another ski- or hike-in restaurant in wintertime. The cozy chalet is perfect on a snowy day, or sit out on the terrace in the springtime sun for huge views over all of Verbier and to the Combins. Local wild game, all of the cheese favorites, and a fantastic dessert menu makes Marlenaz one of the most special restaurants in Verbier - as well as the sled ride home after a late dinner. Pro tip: Book dinner here on New Year’s Eve, for the most incredible view of the fireworks display in town.
Rifugio Gran Sometta, Cervinia
This unassuming hut on the side of the “La Ventina” piste from Testa Grigia to Cervinia is marked only by a sign that says “BAR”, but once inside you’ll know from the warm welcome of our friend and proprietress Anita Gerali that you are in for a memorable meal. Specialty pastas like the unusual Testaroli - halfway between a crepe and a flat sheet pasta, with a walnut pesto - or the “stinco al forno” pork shank are closer to Tuscan cuisine than Aostan - Anita’s father Luciano brought these dishes to the mountains years ago. Wash it down with a Fumin rouge Aostan red, and their home-made grappa with wild strawberries, and you’ll get the best hug of your life before you head back out the door to ski home.
Rifugio Guide del Cervino, Cervinia
At the top of the Testa Grigia cablecar that lands you on the border of Italy and Switzerland is a ramshackle rifugio that often has dozens of skis leaning against the wall; you might be apt to ski right past it, but if you are in the mood for a hearty Aostan feast of polenta, local cured meats and cheeses, or pastas, complemented by an exceptional wine list. On a stormy day, this is where you want to refuel before heading back out into the elements.
El Paradiso, St. Moritz
More Nikki Beach than mountain hut, El Paradiso is unapologetically exclusive, and almost too cool, but whether you brave the velvet rope-feeling of the downstairs restaurant, or stay upstairs on the music club terrace, you’ll soon be relaxing to the groovy soundtrack and tempted by their massive (by Swiss standards) BBQ. Ribeyes, chicken, and spareribs are surprisingly good, and the view cannot be beat. On a sunny day, high above St. Moritz, this is the place to be, and you won’t regret anything but the prices.
Lej da Staz, St. Moritz
While technically not a mountain hut, this remote hotel on the “Lake of the Stags” is best accessed in wintertime by nordic skis, and sits right in the middle of the extensive XC trail system between Pontresina, St. Moritz, and Samedan. Our favorite “Alplermacaroni” in the world is served here - a hearty mac-and-cheese but with potatoes, speck, fried onions, and applesauce on the side (it just works!). The Engadin is a cross-country skiers’ paradise, so if you like skate-skiing or classic-style, make sure to work in a run through the woods that delivers you to this secret lakefront gem.
Zum See, Zermatt
We’ve saved the best for last - probably our favorite place on the planet to unwind after an epic day of skiing, hiking, biking - you name it. This little farm hamlet above Zermatt has housed a restaurant in some form for almost 150 years - first a tea-house for hikers and climbers, and for the past 30+ years, Max and Gretti Mennig have transformed the ancient barnyard into one of the most sought-after tables in the ski world. Whether seated out amongst the rickety leaning barns and chalets, or inside the cozy dining room, the hospitality is unforgettable, as is the food. From their signature salads (grown just next to the restaurant in the summertime) to homemade pastas, grilled meats, local asparagus and impossibly-fresh fish, wild mushrooms and of course their signature dessert the Mille-feuille, which guests will reserve while making their table reservation to guarantee availability! A wine list to die for, and we could go on. Chances are, at the end of the best day of skiing of your life, this is where you would want to wind up. Trust us.
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Epic Europe is a luxury experiential adventure travel operator based in the Swiss Alps.
Epic Europe specializes in private bespoke itineraries for small groups. Experiencing the best of each region, from interacting with the local people and enjoying authentic regional food and wine, as well as time-honored traditions and festivals, to recreating in the alpine landscape, and truly understanding why the Alps are the birthplace of adventure travel. From custom ski, hiking, or cycling trips to building in city tours, cultural itineraries, or gastronomic discovery, these award-winning, multi-dimensional trips are tailored to our clients' wishes every time, and are not packaged tours. From Switzerland, Italy, and France's Alps, to world-class cultural cities and larger towns, Epic Europe can design a tailored adventure that fulfills your every need.
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